Cork now tariff exempt. Cotarella publishes his 10-point plan to “save Italian wine.”

“Cork won a rare Trump tariff exemption thanks to lobbying on both sides of the Atlantic,” AP reported last week. “As of Sept. 1, cork joined a handful of other items, including airplanes and generic pharmaceuticals, that are exempt from a 15% U.S. tariff on most EU products.”

It makes sense in the context of U.S. policy: our country doesn’t produce cork but the domestic wine industry needs cork to align with industry standards for fine-wine packaging.

But the news offered scant relief to E.U. growers who had come to rely on a thirsty American market. Tariffs are here to stay.

Two days ago, enologist Riccardo Cotarella, a leading industry figure, published his “10-point” plan to “save [Italian] wine.”

Chief on his list is his recommendation to reduce the excessive amount of wine produced in Italy today. He also argues for more rigorous technical standards for new winery owners: make sure investors with little experience in the industry have the proper resources to launch profitable companies.

The much-talked-about piece is a reflection of the current crisis: wine consumption is globally down and wine has new competitors like alcohol-free and wellness beverages. Tariffs are the third component in this Jungerian perfect storm.

Few industry observers doubt that we are witnessing an epochal shift.

The good news for Italian growers is that government subsidies are now being activated and wineries are increasingly looking to markets beyond North America.

In my own personal experience, I’ve seen a number of Italian winemakers who have simply decided to move on from America. Beyond their sense of betrayal by a market who adored their wines for decades, many of them are also dismayed by American foreign policy with regard to the wars in Ukraine and the Middle East.

Can you blame them?

Photo snapped at Vinya in Key Biscayne, Florida, one of my favorite shops in the country.