A bottle of 2009 Colgin in Chicago made for a great family tasting in Chicago.

As it just so happened, a best friend of Marty’s showed up to his party in Chicago last Saturday night with a bottle of 2009 Colgin Cariad.

It goes without saying that the wine lovers among the guests were impressed by the generosity of the gift and eager to taste the wine!

The next day, as we reconvened for a family stroll and a pizza send-off for the out-of-towners, we gathered the wine glasses at our cousins’ Hyde Park apartment and mounted a semi-formal and super fun tasting for 10 of the adults — a proper minyan!

The wine had rich, opulent but elegant fruit, with wonderfully balanced acidity that kept it fresh on the palate and lithe in the glass. The finish was also fresh, with lingering notes of berry and earth. Tannin was still going strong but didn’t attenuate the vibrant flavors.

There was more than a bit of sediment in the wine and we would have been better served by letting the bottle stand upright for a few days before opening.

But the verve of the moment called for it to be opened à la volée! (Excuse the paronomasia.)

I’ve come to reconsider the iconic wines of Napa in the autumn of my oenophilic career. This bottle reminded me of how Napa has reshaped the world of wine, in so many ways.

The wine was delicious and a wonderful way to bring our family together over something truly special and unique, a benchmark for an American wine legacy. Chapeau bas to its producer.

Happy 80th birthday Marty Levy! How wonderful to see you surrounded by people who love you and what a great party! We wouldn’t have missed it for the world. We love you. Thanks for sharing the celebration with us.